The Chainwalk

 

Kincraig Cliffs - Earlsferry.

Introduction : 

In 1923, knowledgeable persons, of the then independent villages of  Elie, and The Royal Burgh of Earlsferry, got together to discuss making easier access to the interesting geology, flora and fauna of Kincraig cliffs.    After some fundraising they were able to employ a blacksmith (from Arncroach) to cut steps into the rocks, and fix chains in place;  at the cost of £100.   And that is how, and when, the Chainwalk was ‘born’.    Prior to this the only way of getting to the bottom of the cliffs was on foot at Spring tides, or by rowing boat.    I have walked, at low tide, along to the West end of ‘Stottin’ Stanes’ on a 6.2  Spring tide beach.   That is a low tide.

I first came in contact with the Kincraig cliffs in 1951 when Jim Webster (a school friend) and I climbed up the cliffs, to have a look at the big guns.   From the mid 1950’s onwards the ‘Colinsburgh lauds’ spent most summer evenings swimming off the rocks at Kincraig Point, occasionally climbing Chains 6, 7 and 8, but never did the walk as a whole.... because we always did our swimming off the rocks of Kincraig Point.     The first time I did the complete walk was with Maggie in 1955.    Since settling in Earlsferry I have done the ‘Chainwalk’ hundreds of times.... it was a good way to get rid of the smoke in my lungs after travelling to and from work in a van with 7 smokers.   In those days I could do Ivy Cottage to Ivy Cottage via the Chainwalk in 35 minutes.   The last time I did the Chainwalk was two weeks before I had a hip replacement in 2017.   Although tempted to ‘do’ the Chainwalk again. I am unlikely to do so;   being 83 years old ... oops ... young, I know am not as sure of foot now... and (sometimes) know the limitations that can come with growing older:  but, as I mentioned previously, I can always walk round on the beach on a Spring tide.... or bike (battery assisted) to the top of Kincraig.

Where is the ‘Chainwalk’?     Well it isn’t at the Elie end of the combined villages of Elie and Earlsferry, it is actually round the bottom of Kincraig Cliffs, at the western end of Earlsferry’s West Bay beach.   So that’s the geography sorted out!   When I’m at it I might as well point out that ‘Elie Holiday Park’ isn’t anywhere near Elie either;  it’s at Shell Bay.

The Chainwalk :

Having fallen in love with, and eventually marrying Maggie, an Earlsferry girl,  I always
did the Chainwalk  from the Earlsferry end, and numbered the Chains, 1 – 8 from this, the East end, when I first started my ‘blog’ 20+ years ago.... and that is how I number them still;  from East to West.    The Chainwalk is now part of the Fife Coastal Path , and gives you  a choice of either doing the Chainwalk along the bottom of Kincraig cliffs, or taking the path along the top of the cliffs:  the bottom for the challenge... the top for the stunning view.

I will point out now that the ‘walk’ in not in fact a walk as in ‘walk in the park’, it’s more of a scramble and you need to be sure of foot, and have a head for heights.   You must also wear sensible footwear, and check the times of the tide.   I always do the ‘walk’ when the tide is halfway out;  this gives me  plenty of time to look at rock formations, plants and have a cuppa with ‘Daniel and the Lions’.    With common sense, and being aware of what’s going on around you the walk can be an enjoyable ‘challenge’.   In the event of an accident,.... and accidents can, and have happened, call the Emergency services and ask for “Coastguard”.

 

Hand draw map.

Chain 1.... When you get to the west end of West Bay beach and climb up onto the rock

Chain No1.

path be aware that the path here consists of loose gravel and you must tread carefully.    At the bottom of this gravelly bit you get onto  more solid rock where you follow the ‘path’ round to your right, until you come to a series of steps (foot holes really) cut into the rock (on your tight hand side):   at the top of the steps you follow the ‘path’ to your left, and walk a few yards along to the beginning of the chain that takes you up over and down ;  which becomes, after                                                                                     descent, a horizontal chain with                                                                                           steps cut into the rock, on

'JB' on the low path at Chain 01.

the eastern side of the inlet.    If the tide is out you can miss this chain by simply not climbing the steps up to the start of the chain, and continuing on to the bottom of the path to steps that take you down into the inlet.... as 'JB' (my grandson) is doing in the second photo.  You can miss both Chains 01 and 02 by climbing out of the inlet and going under the ‘arch’ on the west side onto a small pebbly beach.   This is a good place to find pebbles to polish.    At the west end of this beach you will find some steps cut into the rock to take you up to the path that takes you to 'Stottin Stanes'  (Pebble beach);  but we're ahead of ourselves as we want to 'do'  .....

Chain 2 .... is on the West side of the Macduff’s cave inlet, directly across from the innermost end of Chain 01, and is reached by climbing up a rock (see photograph), then reaching over to grab Chain 02 and stepping over a small gap between the rock and the ‘path’ that has been cut into the rock face, and walk up using the chain as a ‘handrail’.   

Chain No2.

At the top of Chain 02 you follow the ‘path’  down, then up the other side, and bearing right make your way along the east side of, and eventually down onto ‘Stottin Stanes’, sometimes called Pebble beach:   and it is easy to see where this ‘beach’ gets its name from.   This is the only place that I have found Sea Wormwood (artemisia martima) locally;  Kincraig and Crail being the only two places I have seen it.   At the West end of Pebble beach you come to the ‘Rock fall’ which you have to cross to reach Chain 3....the rock fall demands care and sure footedness.

Chain N03 - rockfall in the foreground

Chain 3 .... is the shortest chain on the ‘walk, and is at the West end of 'Pebble Beach.   At the top of Chain 03 you will see a gravelly
path on the right, that takes you up to the top of Chain 4.   Being aware of gravelly paths.... I nearly always avoided doing Chain 4 and instead, went down to the left over a few rocks and onto the small beach, historically known as ‘East Coal Heugh’..... but let’s do Chain 4 today

Chain 4 .... having safely negotiated the gravelly path you are faced with a vertical  chain with footsteps cut into the rock.... and a tricky overhang at the bottom.    I do not like this overhanging bit at all, which is why I mostly missed Chain 4.   Take great care at the bottom, gripping the chain tightly until your feet are in contact with the ground.   

'Em' descending Chain 04.

Once you have reached the bottom  you ‘walk’ west over rocks to the relatively level part of the walk ....‘The Flairs (floors)’.    As you reach the Flairs you will pass the West Coal Heugh (Jimmy’s hidey hole) with ‘Daniel and the Lions’ rock formations close by.   Daniel and the Lions are seen best from West Bay beach.    You bumble your way westward, over the ‘Floors’,  at the West end of which you come to ....

'JB' on Chain 05.

Chain 5 .... which takes you up from The Floors to the top of Chain 6

Chain 6 .... this is the longest of the vertical chains and is in two parts.   The first part

Chains 06 (vertical one) and 07.

takes you down, at about 60 degrees, and has steps cut into the rock, the second part is where the descent becomes near vertical, and has foot holes cut into the rock.     This is the only chain with two anchor posts;  one  at the top and another at the top of the second part of the chain.   As ever grip the chain tightly until your feet are firmly planted on ‘terra firma’ .   From here you can go down into the Doo’s Cave (formerly Hall cave) inlet, missing out chain 7.   However we’re feeling adventurous so on to .....

Chain 7 .....  runs along the east side of the inlet, above high tide level, where a ledge a ledge has been cut to walk along

'JB' on Chain 07.

 with  the chain as a ‘handrail’ for safety.   You have to be careful as parts of the ledge are missing .... but, by hanging on tightly to this chain it can be easily negotiated.   The innermost end of Chain 7 drops you off right at the Doo’s cave entrance.    So named because of its occupants!    From here you climb out on the west side of the inlet and up to Chain 8.

Chain 8 .....is the last chain on the ‘Chainwalk’ when doing it from the East;   

Chain 08.... on the West side of the Doo's Cave inlet.

from the top of Chain 8 you head West, crossing some rocks until you reach the ‘grassy bit’.   This is where ‘JB’ and I devour whatever is left of the energy giving foods (usually Tunnock’s Caramel Wafers) and have a cup of coffee or Irn Brew.   From the grassy bit you can go down and have a look at the Deil’s cave;  so named because of its .... no that can’t be, it isn’t hot enough!    If you feel inclined you can climb up the West side of the Deil’s cave inlet , but it is not easy... and there isn’t a chain to help.   There never has been chain here.   I  usually go up to the Coastal path from the grassy bit (though I have climbed out of the inlet on the west side of the Deil’s cave inlet numerous times when younger).

Having negotiated another gravelly path to reach the Coastal path, you have the choice of going East or West:   East takes you along the top of the cliffs with the stunning views. West takes you to Shell Bay  and the caravan park.

I always go West first, to have a look at the ‘red rock’, and then have a reminisce about the fun we had, swimming and picnicking in this area, back in the 1950’s,  before going home, via the top of the cliffs to take in the views.

That is the ‘Chainwalk’ as I did it from Earlsferry;  when I did it from the Shell Bay end I'd most often go down the path at the grassy slope,.... be aware that this is a gravelly path.... and do the Chainwalk from there.   If you wish to visit the Deil's cave from the grassy place,  there are steps cut into the rock that take you down to the lower level, from there you can go down into the inlet and the cave.

Car Parking.   In the months of July and August finding a parking space in Elie and Earlsferry can be a problem..    In Elie and Earlsferry the nearest parking spaces to the Chainwalk  are the  at the west end of Earlsferry High Street, and on the edge of the golf course at Chapel Green Road, Earlsferry.